Transport / High-speed trains · Transport guide

Shinkansen: how to ride Japan's bullet trains like a local

By train

The Shinkansen is the easiest way to cross Japan. Trains run up to 320 km/h, leave on the minute, and take you from city centre to city centre, usually faster than flying once you count the airport time.

It's also simple once you know a few rules. Here's everything I tell friends before their first ride.

up to 320km/h
~2 h 15Tokyo → Kyoto
~1 h 30Tokyo → Sendai
~¥14kTokyo → Kyoto, reserved
1 monthbooking opens ahead

Typical times and one-way ordinary-class fares for one adult. Fares change, so check before you book.

The network in one minute

N700S on the Tokaido line
N700S on the Tokaido line
E5 Hayabusa on the Tohoku line
E5 Hayabusa on the Tohoku line
E6 Komachi to Akita in autumn
E6 Komachi to Akita in autumn
LineRouteTrains (fastest first)
TokaidoTokyo – Nagoya – Kyoto – Shin-OsakaNozomi · Hikari · Kodama
SanyoShin-Osaka – Kobe – Okayama – Hiroshima – Hakata (Fukuoka)Nozomi · Mizuho · Sakura · Hikari · Kodama
KyushuHakata – Kumamoto – Kagoshima-ChuoMizuho · Sakura · Tsubame
Nishi-KyushuTakeo-Onsen – Nagasaki (relay train from Hakata)Kamome
TohokuTokyo – Sendai – Morioka – Shin-AomoriHayabusa · Hayate · Yamabiko · Nasuno
HokkaidoShin-Aomori – Shin-Hakodate-HokutoHayabusa · Hayate
Akita / Yamagata (mini-shinkansen)Branches off the Tohoku line to Akita and Yamagata / ShinjoKomachi · Tsubasa
JoetsuTokyo – Echigo-Yuzawa – NiigataToki · Tanigawa
HokurikuTokyo – Nagano – Kanazawa – TsurugaKagayaki · Hakutaka · Tsurugi · Asama

The train name tells you how many stops it makes. Nozomi and Hayabusa are the express versions, while Kodama and Nasuno stop everywhere. On the Tohoku line, Hayabusa and Komachi often run coupled together and split at Morioka, so check your car number.

Typical travel times & fares

From Tokyo toFastest trainTimeReserved seat, one way
KyotoNozomi~2 h 15~¥14,000
Shin-OsakaNozomi~2 h 30~¥14,500
HiroshimaNozomi~4 h~¥19,500
Hakata (Fukuoka)Nozomi~5 h~¥23,000
SendaiHayabusa~1 h 30~¥11,000
Shin-AomoriHayabusa~3 h~¥17,500
KanazawaKagayaki~2 h 30~¥14,000
NiigataToki~1 h 40~¥10,500

Over about five hours (Tokyo → Fukuoka, Tokyo → Hokkaido), check a domestic flight too. JAL and ANA have fares for foreign visitors that often beat the train.

Tickets & booking

  1. Online: smartEX (Tokaido, Sanyo and Kyushu lines), JR-EAST Train Reservation (Tohoku, Hokkaido, Joetsu, Hokuriku and the mini-shinkansen) or JR-WEST Online Train Reservation. All work with foreign cards and have English versions
  2. At the station: the red or green ticket machines have English menus, and the staffed ticket offices help with anything complicated
  3. When: seats go on sale about one month ahead. For Golden Week (early May), Obon (mid-August), New Year and autumn weekends, book on day one
  4. At the gate: insert all your tickets together (base fare + express ticket) and take them back out on the other side. Some online bookings link to an IC card or QR code instead

Reserved, non-reserved or Green?

Ordinary cars have reserved and non-reserved seats. On the Tokaido line, Nozomi cars 1–3 are non-reserved, but at peak holidays Nozomi goes fully reserved. Hayabusa, Komachi and Kagayaki are always fully reserved. Green Car is first class with 2+2 seats and more legroom. Gran Class (on Hayabusa and Kagayaki) is the business-class splurge: 18 leather seats per train.

Children aged 6–11 pay half. Children under 6 ride free if they sit on your lap.

Is the JR Pass worth it?

The nationwide Japan Rail Pass costs about ¥50,000 for 7 days, ¥80,000 for 14 days and ¥100,000 for 21 days in ordinary class. Since the big price increase it only pays off if you really move around.

7-day examplePoint-to-point
Tokyo → Kyoto~¥14,000
Kyoto → Hiroshima (+ Miyajima)~¥11,500
Hiroshima → Tokyo~¥19,500
Total~¥45,000, so the pass is not worth it
  • Worth it: long zig-zags in one week, e.g. Tokyo → Kanazawa → Kyoto → Hiroshima → Fukuoka → Tokyo
  • Not worth it: a single loop Tokyo – Kyoto – Osaka – Tokyo, or a road trip where your train days are far apart
  • Pass holders pay an extra supplement to ride the fastest Nozomi and Mizuho trains, or can take Hikari and Sakura for free
  • Often better value: regional JR passes (JR East, Kyushu, Shikoku, Hokkaido, Kansai). See my regular trains guide

The luggage rule that catches everyone

Big suitcase? Reserve the right seat

On the Tokaido, Sanyo and Kyushu lines, bags with total dimensions (length + width + height) of 160–250 cm need a reservation for a seat with an oversized baggage area, usually the last row of a car. Board without one and you pay a ¥1,000 fee and may have to move. Smaller bags fit on the overhead racks.

Honestly, the best trick is not travelling with a giant suitcase at all. Send it ahead with takkyubin luggage forwarding (Yamato, Sagawa) from your hotel. It arrives the next day for about ¥2,000–3,000 a bag.

On board

Shinkansen platform at Tokyo Station
Shinkansen platform at Tokyo Station
Ordinary class, 3+2 seats
Ordinary class, 3+2 seats
An ekiben in Shinkansen packaging
An ekiben in Shinkansen packaging

Find your car

Platform signs show the car numbers and the queue lines for each door. Line up where your car stops.

Mount Fuji

Heading west from Tokyo, sit on the right: seat E in ordinary class (seat D in Green). Fuji appears around Shin-Fuji, about 40–45 minutes after Tokyo.

Eat

Buy an ekiben (station bento) before boarding. On many lines the snack trolley is gone.

Turn the seats

Travelling as a group of four? Rotate a row to face each other. Turn it back when you leave.

Quiet please

Phone calls happen in the vestibule between cars. Keep the volume down.

Be ready

Stops last only 1–2 minutes. Be at the door with your bags as the train slows down.

The view you're aiming for: N700S passing Mount Fuji
The view you're aiming for: N700S passing Mount Fuji

Comments

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