Honshu / Central Honshu / Tokyo · City guide

Tokyo: where I stay, eat, drink & play

CityFood

Whatever region a trip is really about, it almost always starts or ends in Tokyo. I stopped trying to "do" the city long ago. These days it's the reward at the end of a road trip. Here's my shortlist.

Neighbourhoods & sights

Tokyo Station
Tokyo Station
Shinjuku at night
Shinjuku at night
  • Roppongi & Tokyo Tower
  • Shibuya
  • Yoyogi Park & Meiji Shrine
  • Shinjuku & Shinjuku Gyoen
  • Asakusa
  • Akihabara
  • Ginza
  • Odaiba
  • teamLab Planets
  • The fish market (Tsukiji outer market / Toyosu)
  • Tokyo Station & Marunouchi
  • Kanda
  • Yanaka
  • Shimokitazawa
Evening move Start with yakitori in Omoide Yokocho, then squeeze into a six-seat bar in Golden Gai.

Where I eat

Teppanyaki & wagyu

Misono · Keyakizaka

Sushi

Yajima · Satake · breakfast sushi at the Tsukiji outer market

Tonkatsu

Aoki

Izakaya

Michi Naki Michi · BW Cave

Something sweet

Soufflé pancakes. The fluffier, the better.

Good to know

The best counters take reservations weeks ahead, often only through the hotel concierge or a booking app.

Where I drink

  • The Bellwood
  • Igu & Peace
  • The SG Club
  • Tokyo Confidential
  • BrewDog
  • Bauhaus

Cocktail bars in Tokyo are small. Go early or expect a wait, and there may be a seating charge (otōshi) on the bill.

Pokémon & Ghibli

Sekkoku Laboratory, PokéPark Kanto
Sekkoku Laboratory, PokéPark Kanto
Pokémon Center Mega Tokyo
Pokémon Center Mega Tokyo
  • PokéPark Kanto: the permanent Pokémon park inside Yomiuriland (Inagi), ~40 min on the Keio line from Shinjuku. Fixed-date tickets, in high demand. Book the moment sales open.
  • Pokémon Center Mega Tokyo in Ikebukuro, plus the Pokémon Café (reserve online about a month ahead).
  • Ghibli Museum in Mitaka: tickets sell out, so book as early as they're released.

Where to stay

Per room for two per night. Pick your base by where your trip goes next.

Near Tokyo Station (for the Shinkansen)

  • Dormy Inn Premium Kanda onsen bath & late-night ramen¥20–25k
  • Mitsui Garden Otemachi / Metropolitan Marunouchi right at the station¥25–35k

Shinjuku (nightlife, Keio line to PokéPark)

  • Hotel Gracery Shinjuku the Godzilla hotel in Kabukicho¥25–35k
  • Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo big classic hotel¥35–50k
  • Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku ryokan feel, rooftop onsen¥40–55k

Shinagawa (15 min to Haneda)

  • Mitsui Garden / Sotetsu Fresa Inn solid and good value€110–160
  • Grand Prince a step up€180–260

At Haneda Airport (first / last night)

  • Villa Fontaine Grand Haneda Airport connected to Terminal 3, onsen spa¥25–35k
  • Haneda Excel Hotel Tokyu at Terminal 2¥20–30k

Easy escapes from Tokyo

  • Hakone (onsen & Fuji views)
  • Lake Kawaguchiko (Mount Fuji)
  • Ito on the Izu peninsula
  • Yokohama
  • Kyoto by Shinkansen (with Osaka & Kobe)

Comments

Questions, tips, your own experience?

Done this route, planning it, or found a great ryokan I missed? Leave a comment below. Please keep it friendly and on topic.

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