Shikoku is the smallest of Japan's four main islands and the one most visitors skip, which is exactly why I love it. In just over two weeks you get world-class contemporary art, deep gorges with vine bridges, the last clear river in Japan, Pacific cliffs, castle towns and Japan's oldest onsen town.
You fly from Tokyo to Takamatsu, start car-free on the art island of Naoshima, then pick up a rental car and drive a one-way loop. It ends by crossing the Shimanami Kaidō bridges to Onomichi, where you hand back the car and take the Shinkansen to Tokyo.
*Accommodation and rental car for two, sharing a room. International flights not included.
The route at a glance
Tap or click the map to open it at full size.
Prices are per room for two per night. Ryokan prices include dinner and breakfast. ⭐ = famous / worth it · ⭐⭐ = splurge.
Stop by stop
Tokyo / Haneda 羽田
Nights 1 & 15 · Arrival and the night before your flight home
Plan
- Day 1: land at Haneda and stay at the airport
- Day 2: domestic flight Haneda → Takamatsu (~1 h 20 min), ferry to Naoshima
- Day 15: return the car in Onomichi / Fukuyama, Shinkansen Fukuyama → Tokyo (~3.5 h), on to Haneda
Where to stay
- Villa Fontaine Grand Haneda Airport connected to Terminal 3, onsen spa¥25–35k
- Haneda Excel Hotel Tokyu at Terminal 2, handy for the domestic flight¥20–30k
Naoshima 直島
Nights 2–3 · Art islands, no car needed
Plan
- Naoshima: Chichu Art Museum, Benesse House, the yellow pumpkin, the Art House Project in Honmura. Get around by e-bike or island bus
- Day trip: ferry to Teshima for the Teshima Art Museum, a single drop-shaped space
Where to stay
- ⭐ Benesse House sleep inside the museum, with art in the rooms and halls after closing¥60–90k
- Minshuku / guesthouse simple, in Honmura or Miyanoura, often with breakfast¥15–25k
- ⭐⭐ Naoshima Ryokan Roka new luxury ryokan with onsen¥100k+
Iya Valley 祖谷
Nights 4–5 · Pick up the car in Takamatsu · Konpira-san on the way
Plan
- Day 4: Konpira-san (785 steps, more to the inner shrine), Sanuki udon for lunch, then drive into the valley
- Day 5: vine bridges, Oboke Gorge boat ride, Ochiai village viewpoint, Nagoro scarecrow village
Where to stay
- ⭐ Hotel Iya Onsen cable car down to an open-air bath right on the river¥50–70k
- Hotel Kazurabashi cable car up to the hillside onsen, valley views¥35–50k
- ⭐ Chiiori restored 18th-century thatched farmhouse (Alex Kerr), very remote¥50–80k for the house
Kochi 高知
Nights 6–7 · Castle, market & the Niyodo blue
Plan
- Kochi: Kochi Castle, Hirome Market (bonito seared over a straw fire), Katsurahama beach
- Day trip: the Niyodo River and its famous "Niyodo blue" at the Nakatsu and Yasui gorges (hidden gem)
Where to stay
- ⭐ Jyosei-kan historic ryokan where the imperial family has stayed¥40–60k
- Sansuien onsen hotel next to the castle, in the former lords' garden¥30–40k
- Richmond Hotel Kochi good city hotel close to Hirome Market¥15–20k
Shimanto / Ashizuri 四万十・足摺
Nights 8–9 · The last clear river & the Pacific coast
Plan
- Shimanto: canoeing on the river and the low "chinkabashi" bridges without railings
- Day trip: Cape Ashizuri, with its lighthouse, cliffs above the Pacific and temple 38 of the 88-temple pilgrimage
Where to stay
- Ashizuri Thermae onsen hotel high above the Pacific¥40–60k
- Shimanto no Yado close to the river and nature¥30–40k
- Business hotel in Shimanto (Nakamura) value tip for one night~¥12k
Ozu / Uchiko 大洲・内子
Night 10 · Castle town & old merchant street, via Uwajima
Plan
- Uchiko: Yokaichi merchant street and the Uchiko-za kabuki theatre
- Ozu: wooden castle on the river, Garyu Sanso villa, old-town walk
Where to stay
- ⭐ Nipponia Hotel Ozu Castle Town restored historic houses spread through the old town¥40–60k
- Uchiko guesthouses small stays in old houses¥15–25k
Matsuyama / Dōgo 松山・道後
Nights 11–13 · Japan's oldest onsen town
Plan
- Matsuyama: the Dōgo Onsen Honkan bathhouse, Matsuyama Castle by ropeway
- Day trip: the UFO Line ridge road and Mount Ishizuchi for early autumn colours
- Festival: Niihama Taiko Matsuri (around 16–18 October), huge drum floats, ~1 h away
Where to stay
- ⭐ Dōgo Onsen Funaya one of Dōgo's most famous ryokans, garden & onsen¥50–80k
- Yamatoya Besso elegant, with traditional Noh performances¥50–70k
- Dōgo Yaya casual hotel, 2 min from the Honkan¥15–20k
Shimanami / Setoda しまなみ・瀬戸田
Night 14 · Island-hopping over the bridges to Honshu
Plan
- Shimanami Kaidō: drive the island bridges from Imabari, with a stop at the Kirosan viewpoint
- Cycling: rent bikes on Ikuchijima and ride part of the route
- Setoda & Onomichi: lemon groves, Kosan-ji temple, the hillside temple walk in Onomichi
Where to stay
- ⭐⭐ Azumi Setoda luxury ryokan in a 140-year-old merchant house, by the founder of Aman¥150k+
- Yubune Azumi's sister, a modern bathhouse with rooms¥40–60k
- Hotel Cycle (Onomichi U2) design hotel for cyclists in a converted warehouse¥25–35k
Budget
Estimates for October at ¥150 ≈ US$1 · ¥165 ≈ €1. Ranges, not promises.
| Version | Accommodation (2 people) | + Car (~12 days) | Per person |
|---|---|---|---|
| Value: guesthouses on Naoshima & in Uchiko, Kazurabashi, city & business hotels, Dōgo Yaya | ≈ €2,300 | €800 | ≈ €1,550–1,650 |
| Middle: 1 night Benesse House, Kazurabashi, mixed stays in Kochi, Shimanto & Dōgo, Onomichi U2 | ≈ €3,050 | €800 | ≈ €1,900–2,000 |
| + Splurge: Azumi Setoda or Naoshima Ryokan Roka for one night | + €600–900 | + €300–450 |
My recommendation
Go for the middle version, about €1,950 per person. Best splurge: Azumi Setoda on the last night, or Benesse House for both Naoshima nights.
🚗 Small car, full insurance, one-way fee included: about ¥120–140k.
Not included
- International flights
- Domestic flight Haneda → Takamatsu: about €80–120 per person
- Shinkansen Fukuyama → Tokyo: about €110 per person
- Tolls, fuel and ferries
- Meals on nights without dinner
Booking & practical tips
Naoshima
Museums are closed on Mondays. Book Chichu tickets online. The Setouchi Triennale runs every three years (next: 2028). Festival years are busier, but some installations only open then.
Book soon
Benesse House, Hotel Iya Onsen, Chiiori and Azumi Setoda have very few rooms. Jalan.net and Rakuten Travel often beat the big international booking sites.
Ryokan etiquette
Arrive by ~17:00 for the fixed dinner time. Ask about private baths (kashikiri) if you're travelling as a couple.
Car
Check your licence requirements before you fly. Ask for an ETC card, and check the one-way fee Takamatsu → Onomichi / Fukuyama when you book.
Roads
Iya and Route 439 are narrow with cliffs. Drive slowly, honk before blind bends and use the passing places.
Timing
Kochi Sunday Market runs on Sundays only. The Niihama Taiko Matsuri is around 16–18 October. Peak foliage in Iya and Oboke is in November.
Variation: the reverse loop by car & bike (12 days)
Prefer to start in the west? Fly into Matsuyama and run the island the other way round. Each day below is one line of the itinerary:
- Day 1: arrive in Matsuyama
- Day 2: Matsuyama, ideally with a guided city walk
- Day 3: drive via Uchiko to Ozu
- Day 4: castle town Ozu
- Day 5: on to Uwajima
- Day 6: the Shimanto, Shikoku's longest river
- Day 7: Kochi
- Day 8: drive into the Iya Valley
- Day 9: Iya Valley
- Day 10: on to Takamatsu
- Day 11: explore Takamatsu
- Day 12: day trip to Naoshima
Frequently asked questions
Is Shikoku worth it on a first trip to Japan?
If you've already seen Tokyo and Kyoto, absolutely. On a first trip it works best as a second half after a few days in the big cities. The art islands, the Iya Valley and Dōgo Onsen are like nothing on the classic route.
Do I need a car for Shikoku?
For this route, yes. Naoshima and the cities are fine by ferry and train, but the Iya Valley, the Shimanto River and Cape Ashizuri are very hard to reach by public transport. The car is only needed from day 4.
Can I walk part of the 88-temple pilgrimage?
Yes. Many temples sit right on the route, and walking even a short section between two temples gives you a taste of the henro trail. Pick up a stamp book (nokyocho) at the first temple you visit.
How do I get to Naoshima?
Ferry from Takamatsu (~50 min) or from Uno on the Okayama side (~20 min). Book the Chichu Art Museum online in advance: time slots sell out.
Can I cycle the Shimanami Kaido at the end?
Yes. Instead of driving to Onomichi, return the car in Imabari and ride the 70 km across the islands by rental bike, with a night in Setoda. My South Honshu loop explains the bike options.
Comments
Questions, tips, your own experience?
Done this route, planning it, or found a great ryokan I missed? Leave a comment below. Please keep it friendly and on topic.
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