Kyushu / Kyushu · Tokyo · 16–21 days · by train

From tonkotsu to Tokyo: three weeks of hells, volcanoes & hot springs

By trainOnsen & ryokanFoodCity

Kyushu is Japan's southern island: warmer, more relaxed and far less crowded than the classic Golden Route. It's also arguably the country's best food island. Think tonkotsu ramen, yatai street stalls, mentaiko and Kumamoto horse sashimi for the brave.

No car needed. Fly into Tokyo and straight on to Fukuoka (or fly directly into Fukuoka), then travel by train and bus in a loop: Fukuoka → Yufuin → Beppu → Kumamoto → Nagasaki → Fukuoka. Fly back to Tokyo for the big-city finale. Doing 21 days instead of 16? Add one of three classic side trips from Tokyo.

16–21days
train & busno car needed
6cities
late Oct–Novbest time
~€1,250pp hotels + transport, 16 days*

*Hotels (sharing a room) and local transport. International flights not included.

The route at a glance

Hotels on this route are easy to book on the usual platforms. Pick your own comfort level. The budget below assumes mid-range city hotels plus one ryokan night.

Stop by stop

Yatai food stalls in Nakasu
Yatai food stalls in Nakasu
Dazaifu Tenmangu
Dazaifu Tenmangu
Ohori Park
Ohori Park
Punting on the canals of Yanagawa
Punting on the canals of Yanagawa
The Naka River through Nakasu at night
The Naka River through Nakasu at night
01

Fukuoka

Nights 1–3 · Ramen capital & yatai food stalls

Plan

  • Arrival: check in, find ramen near the hotel. Hakata tonkotsu is the local religion
  • Nanzoin (one of the largest bronze reclining Buddhas in the world), Canal City, Ohori Park
  • teamLab Forest, and a half-day trip to Dazaifu Tenmangu shrine
  • Evenings: the yatai stalls along the river in Nakasu. Eat a lot!
  • Optional half-day: Yanagawa, about 50 minutes south, for a punt ride on the canals and steamed eel (unagi seiro-mushi) at Ganso Motoyoshiya or Wakamatsuya
Good to know Book the same hotel for both Fukuoka stays (and both Tokyo stays). You can leave your big luggage there and travel light around Kyushu.
Lake Kinrin, Yufuin
Lake Kinrin, Yufuin
Mount Yufu above Yufuin
Mount Yufu above Yufuin
02

Yufuin

Night 4 · A ryokan night: traditional food & onsen

Plan

  • Main point: a traditional kaiseki dinner and a long soak in the onsen
  • Lake Kinrin early in the morning when the mist rises
  • Yufuin Floral Village, the Comico Art Museum, small cafés and shops along Yunotsubo street
Good to know This is the night to splurge on a ryokan with a private open-air bath.
Umi Jigoku, the "sea hell"
Umi Jigoku, the "sea hell"
Chinoike Jigoku, the blood-red pond
Chinoike Jigoku, the blood-red pond
A sea of clouds below Mount Tsurumi
A sea of clouds below Mount Tsurumi
03

Beppu

Nights 5–6 · The seven hells & countless hot springs

Plan

  • The Hells of Beppu (jigoku): boiling blue, red and mud ponds you look at, not bathe in
  • Beppu Ropeway up Mount Tsurumi
  • Takasakiyama, the monkey mountain
  • The beach, sand baths and a downtown stroll
Good to know Try food cooked in onsen steam (jigoku-mushi). It's a Beppu speciality.
Kumamoto Castle
Kumamoto Castle
Suizen-ji garden and its miniature Mount Fuji
Suizen-ji garden and its miniature Mount Fuji
Old crater walls below Nakadake, Mount Aso
Old crater walls below Nakadake, Mount Aso
Takachiho Gorge by boat
Takachiho Gorge by boat
04

Kumamoto

Nights 7–9 · Castle, Kumamon & Mount Aso

Plan

  • Kumamoto Castle and Suizenji garden
  • Kumamon Square and the One Piece statues around the prefecture
  • Day trip: Mount Aso, one of the world's largest calderas
  • Day trip: Kurokawa Onsen, or Takachiho Gorge with its rowing boats under a waterfall
Good to know Takachiho and Kurokawa are both easier as a tour or with a one-day rental car.
Nagasaki from Mount Inasa
Nagasaki from Mount Inasa
Meganebashi, the spectacles bridge
Meganebashi, the spectacles bridge
05

Nagasaki

Nights 10–11 · History, harbour & one of the world's great night views

Plan

  • Mount Inasa lookout at night
  • Meganebashi stone bridge
  • Sanno Shrine and its famous one-legged torii
  • Peace Park
  • Teramachi-dori temple street and Chinatown
Kaminarimon gate, Asakusa
Kaminarimon gate, Asakusa
07

Tokyo

Nights 13–15 · Fly back to the capital

Plan

  • Roppongi, Tokyo Tower, Shibuya, Yoyogi Park & Meiji Shrine, Shinjuku & Gyoen
  • Asakusa, Akihabara, Ginza, the fish market, Tokyo Station
  • teamLab Planets, Odaiba, wagyu and a night of bar hopping
Good to know My full list of Tokyo restaurants and bars is in the Tokyo city guide.
Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto
Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto
The floating torii of Miyajima
The floating torii of Miyajima
Kenroku-en, Kanazawa
Kenroku-en, Kanazawa
08

Side trip (pick one)

Nights 16–18/19 · For the 21-day version

Plan

  • Kyoto: 3–4 days, with day trips to Osaka and Kobe
  • Hiroshima: Peace Memorial, Miyajima island
  • Kanazawa: Kenroku-en garden, geisha district, seafood market
  • Or stay closer to Tokyo: Hakone or Lake Kawaguchiko for Mount Fuji, Ito on the Izu peninsula, or Yokohama
Good to know Buy point-to-point Shinkansen tickets, or price a regional pass for the side trip only.

Budget

Estimates for October at ¥150 ≈ US$1 · ¥165 ≈ €1. Ranges, not promises.

16 days21 days
Hotels (per person, sharing)≈ €1,100≈ €1,500–1,700
Local transport (trains, buses)≈ €150≈ €200
Total per person≈ €1,250≈ €1,700–1,900

My recommendation

Hotel prices are based on real mid-range options. You can easily go cheaper or more luxurious. The 21-day price depends on which side trip you pick.

Not included

  • International flights
  • Domestic flights Tokyo ⇄ Fukuoka
  • Food, ryokan upgrades and entrance fees

Booking & practical tips

Luggage

Same hotel twice in Fukuoka and twice in Tokyo means you can leave luggage behind. Takkyubin (luggage forwarding) solves the rest.

Booking timing

Book hotels about six months ahead for autumn. Ryokans in Yufuin and Kurokawa go first.

Alternative loop

Swap Yufuin and Oita for a western extension: Fukuoka → Nagasaki → Kumamoto → Beppu → ferry to Matsuyama (Shikoku) → Hiroshima → Fukuoka.

Eat

Hakata ramen, yatai, mentaiko, Kumamoto horse sashimi, champon in Nagasaki, jigoku-mushi in Beppu.

Read my road-trip & ryokan essentials →

Two more ways to do Kyushu

Option 1 · the onsen-heavy version

  1. 3 days Fukuoka
  2. 2 days Yufuin
  3. 2 days Oita
  4. 3 days Kumamoto
  5. 2 days Nagasaki
  6. 1 day Fukuoka
  7. fly to Tokyo: 3 days Tokyo, 2 days Ito (Izu), rest in Yokohama or Tokyo

Option 2 · Kyushu + Shikoku + Hiroshima

  1. 3 days Fukuoka
  2. 2 days Nagasaki
  3. 3 days Kumamoto
  4. 2 days Beppu
  5. 2 days Matsuyama
  6. 2 days Hiroshima
  7. 1–2 days Fukuoka
  8. rest in Tokyo

Frequently asked questions

Is a JR Pass worth it for this route?

Usually not. The Kyushu loop is cheap with single tickets, and the Tokyo ⇄ Fukuoka leg is faster and often cheaper by plane. Price the JR Kyushu Rail Pass only if you add many long train days.

Why fly between Tokyo and Fukuoka?

The Shinkansen takes about 5 hours; a flight takes under 2 hours, and Fukuoka Airport is only two subway stops from Hakata Station. Booked early, domestic flights often cost less than the train.

Can I see Mount Aso and Takachiho without a car?

Aso, yes: the Kyushu Odan bus and JR trains stop there. Takachiho and Kurokawa are much easier as a day tour from Kumamoto or with a one-day rental car.

Is the horse sashimi in Kumamoto a must?

It's the local speciality (basashi), usually served with sweet soy and ginger. If it's not for you, Kumamoto ramen with fried garlic is the safer classic.

Which side trip should I pick for the 21-day version?

Kyoto for temples, Hiroshima and Miyajima for history and the floating torii, Kanazawa for gardens and seafood. If you have never been to Kyoto, pick Kyoto.

Comments

Questions, tips, your own experience?

Done this route, planning it, or found a great ryokan I missed? Leave a comment below. Please keep it friendly and on topic.

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