Hokkaido is Japan's wild north: wide skies, volcanoes, crater lakes and farmland that looks more like Europe than Asia. Distances are big and public transport thins out quickly, so this is the island where a car really pays off.
The loop starts in Sapporo and ends at New Chitose Airport, and works from June to October. July is lavender time in Furano. From mid-September the first autumn colours in Japan appear on Asahidake, and by early October they reach Shiretoko and the lakes. The last nights belong to two of Hokkaido's great onsen stops: Noboribetsu and Lake Toya.
*Accommodation and rental car for two, sharing a room. Flights not included.
The route at a glance
Tap or click the map to open it at full size.
Prices are per room for two per night. Ryokan prices include dinner and breakfast. ⭐ = famous / worth it · ⭐⭐ = splurge.
Stop by stop
Sapporo 札幌
Nights 1–2 · Hokkaido's capital: beer, ramen & jingisukan
Plan
- Day 1: land at New Chitose Airport, JR Rapid Airport train to Sapporo (~37 min)
- Odori Park and the TV Tower, the old Clock Tower, Nijo Market for a seafood breakfast
- Sapporo Beer Museum, then the Mount Moiwa ropeway for the night view
- Eat: miso ramen, soup curry and jingisukan (grilled lamb)
Where to stay
- ⭐ JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo above Sapporo Station, big views¥30–45k
- Dormy Inn Premium Sapporo onsen bath & free late-night ramen¥18–28k
- Cross Hotel Sapporo design hotel near the station¥18–30k
Otaru & Shakotan 小樽・積丹
Night 3 · Canal town & the 'Shakotan blue' coast
Plan
- Day 3: pick up the car in Sapporo, drive to the Shakotan peninsula (~2 h): the ridge path out to Cape Kamui above the clear blue sea, sea-urchin bowls (uni-don) in summer
- Evening in Otaru: the canal at dusk, Sakaimachi street with glass workshops and the music box museum, then sushi
Where to stay
- ⭐⭐ Otaru Ginrinsou historic herring-merchant mansion, now an onsen ryokan above the sea¥60–90k
- Hotel Nord Otaru right next to the canal¥18–30k
- Hotel Sonia Otaru canal-view rooms, walk to everything¥18–30k
Furano & Biei 富良野・美瑛
Nights 4–5 · Lavender, patchwork hills & the Blue Pond
Plan
- Day 4: drive ~2.5 h to Furano; Farm Tomita's lavender fields (peak mid–late July)
- Day 5: Biei's Patchwork Road and Panorama Road, the Shikisai-no-oka flower hills, the Blue Pond and Shirahige Falls
- Evening: Furano cheese and wine, the craft cabins of Ningle Terrace in the forest
Where to stay
- Furano Natulux Hotel modern hotel next to Furano Station¥18–30k
- New Furano Prince Hotel resort hotel with onsen, next to Ningle Terrace¥25–45k
- ⭐ Shirogane Onsen small onsen hotels up by the Blue Pond, under Mount Tokachi¥30–50k
Daisetsuzan & Sounkyo 大雪山・層雲峡
Night 6 · Japan's first autumn colours
Plan
- Morning: Asahidake ropeway up to Sugatami Pond, then a 1–2 h loop walk past steaming vents (autumn colours from early to mid-September)
- Afternoon: drive round to Sounkyo Gorge, the Ginga and Ryusei waterfalls, the Kurodake ropeway
- Evening: onsen in Sounkyo
Where to stay
- Sounkyo Choyotei big onsen hotel with gorge views¥30–50k
- ⭐ Lodge Nutapukaushipe small log lodge at the foot of Asahidake¥25–35k
- La Vista Daisetsuzan onsen hotel near the Asahidake ropeway¥40–60k
Shiretoko 知床
Nights 7–8 · UNESCO wilderness at the end of the road
Plan
- Day 7: the long drive (~4 h) via the Sea of Okhotsk coast to Utoro; sunset from Yuhidai
- Day 8: Shiretoko Five Lakes (the elevated boardwalk is free; the ground trail needs a short lecture or a guide in bear season), Furepe Falls, and a boat cruise along the cliffs to look for bears
- Optional: cross the Shiretoko Pass (Route 334) to Rausu for whale watching (spring to autumn)
Where to stay
- ⭐ Kitakobushi Shiretoko Hotel & Resort onsen hotel on the coast at Utoro¥35–55k
- Shiretoko Daiichi Hotel big onsen hotel above Utoro¥30–45k
- Utoro guesthouses small family-run stays¥15–25k
Lake Akan & Lake Mashu 阿寒・摩周
Nights 9–10 · Caldera lakes & Ainu culture
Plan
- Day 9: drive ~2.5 h to Lake Mashu, one of the clearest lakes in the world, seen from its crater rim
- Lake Kussharo: dig your own warm pool in the sand at Sunayu; the steaming sulphur vents of Iozan
- Day 10: Lake Akan: the Ainu Kotan village with crafts and the Ikor theatre for traditional dance, a boat to the marimo (moss ball) centre, the Bokke mud-pot walk
Where to stay
- Akan Yuku no Sato Tsuruga large onsen resort on the lake¥35–55k
- ⭐ La Vista Akangawa stylish onsen hotel with river-view baths¥45–70k
- ⭐⭐ Akan Tsuruga Besso Hinanoza small luxury ryokan¥90k+
Tokachi 十勝
Night 11 · Farmland, butadon & moor onsen
Plan
- Day 11: drive ~2.5 h south-west to Obihiro; butadon (grilled pork on rice) for lunch and Rokkatei's sweets
- Tokachi's open farmland and flower gardens; Tokachigawa Onsen's brown 'moor' water, rich in plant minerals
Where to stay
- ⭐ Sasai Hotel onsen hotel with moor-water baths¥30–45k
- Tokachigawa Onsen Daiichi Hotel garden ryokan with big baths¥30–50k
Noboribetsu 登別
Night 12 · Hell Valley & Hokkaido's most famous onsen town
Plan
- Day 12: expressway west (~3 h) to Noboribetsu
- Jigokudani (Hell Valley): boardwalks through a steaming crater; walk on to Oyunuma pond and the Oyunumagawa natural footbath, a warm river in the forest
- Evening: soak in several different types of spring water in one bathhouse
Where to stay
- ⭐ Dai-ichi Takimotokan huge bathhouse with many spring types, overlooking Hell Valley¥35–55k
- Noboribetsu Grand Hotel classic onsen hotel in the town centre¥30–45k
- ⭐⭐ Takinoya refined ryokan with private baths¥80k+
Lake Toya 洞爺湖
Night 13 · Caldera lake, volcanoes & fireworks
Plan
- Day 13: ~1 h to Lake Toya; the Mount Usu ropeway with views of Showa-shinzan, a volcano that rose out of wheat fields in 1943–45
- Lakeside onsen town; fireworks over the lake every night from late April to October (about 20 minutes, around 20:45)
- Day 14: ~1.5 h to New Chitose Airport, return the car, fly out
Where to stay
- ⭐⭐ The Windsor Hotel Toya hilltop resort above the lake and the sea¥60–100k
- Toya Sun Palace big lakeside onsen resort¥25–40k
- Nonokaze Resort lakeside onsen hotel, lake-view rooms¥40–60k
Budget
Estimates for October at ¥150 ≈ US$1 · ¥165 ≈ €1. Ranges, not promises.
| Version | Accommodation (2 people) | + Car (12 days) | Per person |
|---|---|---|---|
| Value: business hotels, guesthouses and simpler onsen hotels | ≈ ¥350k | ¥130k | ≈ ¥240k |
| Middle: first option at most stops, ryokans with dinner | ≈ ¥480k | ¥130k | ≈ ¥305k |
| + Splurge: one night at Ginrinsou, Hinanoza or the Windsor | + ¥50–80k | + ¥25–40k |
My recommendation
Take the middle version, about ¥300k per person. Best splurge: the Windsor Hotel Toya on the last night, with the lake below you.
🚗 Compact car, full insurance, picked up in Sapporo and returned at New Chitose Airport: about ¥120–150k for 12 days.
Not included
- Flights
- Fuel and tolls: about ¥40–60k in total (the Hokkaido Expressway Pass helps)
- Lunches, and dinners on hotel-only nights
- Boat cruises, ropeways and entrance fees
- July–August and autumn weekends: up to +30%
Booking & practical tips
Driving licence
You need an International Driving Permit (1949 Geneva Convention) or, for some countries, an official Japanese translation. See my rental car guide.
Distances
Hokkaido is big: 250–350 km days happen on this loop. Fill up when you can, because rural petrol stations close early.
Wildlife
Deer jump onto roads at dusk, so slow down. Foxes look cute but can carry a dangerous parasite: never feed or touch them. Bears: bells on trails, no food left outside.
Tolls
Ask the rental company for an ETC card and the Hokkaido Expressway Pass for foreign visitors; it covers the long expressway days.
Seasons
Lavender: July. Autumn colours: Asahidake mid-September, Sounkyo late September, Shiretoko and Akan early to mid-October. The Shiretoko Pass is closed in winter.
Book early
July, August and autumn weekends are Hokkaido's peak. Book the car and Shiretoko hotels months ahead.
Frequently asked questions
When is the lavender in Furano at its best?
From about mid to late July, for roughly three weeks. In June the fields are green; from August the hills turn golden with other flowers.
Are bears a real risk?
They're common in Shiretoko and the mountains, but encounters are rare if you follow the rules: bells on trails, no food left outside, and never approach wildlife. Join a guided walk for the Shiretoko Five Lakes ground trail in bear season.
Is 14 days enough for Hokkaido?
For this loop, yes, with some long driving days. With 10 days, skip Shiretoko and Tokachi; with 18, add a night in Biei and a second night in Shiretoko.
Do I need an expressway pass?
It helps. The Hokkaido Expressway Pass for foreign visitors comes with the ETC card from your rental company and covers the long toll days.
Can I do it in autumn instead of summer?
Yes. The first colours appear on Asahidake in mid-September, then move to Sounkyo, Shiretoko and the lakes by early to mid-October.
Comments
Questions, tips, your own experience?
Done this route, planning it, or found a great ryokan I missed? Leave a comment below. Please keep it friendly and on topic.
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