/* Tabi Notes — washi paper, sumi ink, vermilion seal
   Layout tiers:  XL ≥1600 · L 1181–1599 (full screen) · M 701–1180 (half screen / tablet) · S ≤700 (phone)
   Type and spacing scale fluidly in between via clamp(). */
:root{
  --paper:#f7f3ec; --card:#fffdf8; --ink:#1f1c19; --muted:#6d655b; --line:#e5ddcf;
  --red:#c8412e; --red-d:#a3321f; --indigo:#22304a; --moss:#5d6b47;
  --serif:"Fraunces",Georgia,serif; --sans:"Inter",system-ui,-apple-system,Segoe UI,sans-serif; --jp:"Noto Serif JP","Yu Mincho",serif;
  --r:14px; --shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(31,28,25,.06),0 8px 24px rgba(31,28,25,.07);
  --gutter:clamp(16px,4vw,32px);        /* side padding */
  --sec:clamp(36px,6vw,64px);           /* vertical section spacing */
  --gap:clamp(14px,2.2vw,26px);         /* grid gaps */
  --head-h:66px;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:calc(var(--head-h) + 14px);-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:400 clamp(15.5px,.25vw + 14.6px,17px)/1.65 var(--sans);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;overflow-x:hidden}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}
a{color:var(--red-d)}
h1,h2,h3,h4{font-family:var(--serif);line-height:1.15;margin:0 0 .5em;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:-.01em;overflow-wrap:break-word}
h2{font-size:clamp(1.45rem,1rem + 1.6vw,2.2rem)}
h3{font-size:clamp(1.15rem,1rem + .5vw,1.35rem)}
h4{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);font-weight:600;margin:1.2em 0 .5em}
p{margin:0 0 1em}
.wrap{max-width:1180px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 var(--gutter)}
.muted{color:var(--muted)} .small{font-size:.88rem}
.kicker{font-size:.74rem;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;font-weight:600;color:var(--red);margin:0 0 .6em}
.money{white-space:nowrap}
.hero-txt,.post-body,.stop-txt,.cb,.sc,.tipcard,.callout{min-width:0;overflow-wrap:break-word}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- header */
.site-header{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:50;background:rgba(247,243,236,.94);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.bar{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:18px;height:var(--head-h)}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);min-width:0}
.seal{flex:0 0 auto;display:grid;place-items:center;width:38px;height:38px;background:var(--red);color:#fff;font:700 22px/1 var(--jp);border-radius:6px;transform:rotate(-4deg);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 2px rgba(255,255,255,.25)}
.bt{display:flex;flex-direction:column;line-height:1.05;min-width:0}
.bn{font:600 1.2rem var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.01em;white-space:nowrap}
.bs{font:500 .62rem var(--sans);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);margin-top:3px;white-space:nowrap}
.cur{display:flex;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:99px;overflow:hidden;margin-left:auto;background:var(--card);flex:0 0 auto}
.cur button{border:0;background:none;font:600 .78rem var(--sans);padding:6px 11px;cursor:pointer;color:var(--muted);min-height:32px}
.cur button.on{background:var(--ink);color:#fff}
.site-header nav{display:flex;gap:clamp(12px,1.4vw,24px)}
.site-header nav a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;font-weight:500;font-size:.95rem;padding:4px 0;border-bottom:2px solid transparent;white-space:nowrap}
.site-header nav a:hover,.site-header nav a.on{border-color:var(--red)}
.menu{display:none;background:none;border:0;font-size:1.5rem;line-height:1;cursor:pointer;color:var(--ink);width:44px;height:44px;margin-right:-10px;border-radius:10px}
.menu:focus-visible,.cur button:focus-visible,.btn:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--red);outline-offset:2px}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- hero */
.hero{position:relative;min-height:min(62vh,600px);min-height:min(62svh,600px);display:flex;align-items:flex-end;color:#fff;overflow:hidden;background:var(--indigo)}
.home-hero{min-height:min(84vh,780px);min-height:min(84svh,780px)}
.hero-img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.hero-type{position:absolute;inset:0;display:grid;place-items:center;font:700 clamp(7rem,26vw,22rem)/1 var(--jp);color:rgba(255,255,255,.09);
  background:radial-gradient(circle at 75% 30%,#d4553c 0,transparent 45%),radial-gradient(circle at 15% 80%,#3b5a6e 0,transparent 50%),linear-gradient(135deg,#2a1e2e,#1d2b40)}
.shade{position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,.05) 25%,rgba(10,10,15,.75))}
.hero-txt{position:relative;padding-bottom:clamp(28px,5vw,56px);padding-top:clamp(80px,12vw,120px);width:100%}
.hero h1{font-size:clamp(1.85rem,1.1rem + 3.4vw,4rem);max-width:920px;font-weight:600;text-shadow:0 2px 20px rgba(0,0,0,.25)}
.home-hero h1{font-size:clamp(2.4rem,1.2rem + 5.4vw,5.6rem)}
.hero .kicker{color:#ffd7c9}
.hero .sub{font-size:clamp(1rem,.9rem + .4vw,1.15rem);max-width:620px;opacity:.95;margin-bottom:1.6em}
.jp-big{font:500 .5em var(--jp);opacity:.85;margin-left:8px;white-space:nowrap}
.crumb{color:#fff;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.5)}
.crumb:hover{border-color:#fff}
.tags{display:flex;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.tag{font-size:.78rem;padding:4px 12px;border-radius:99px;background:rgba(255,255,255,.16);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.3);backdrop-filter:blur(4px)}
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:44px;background:var(--red);color:#fff;text-decoration:none;padding:10px 22px;border-radius:99px;font-weight:600;font-size:.95rem;transition:background .2s;margin:0 6px 8px 0}
.btn:hover{background:var(--red-d)}
.btn.ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--red-d);border:1.5px solid currentColor}
.btn.ghost.light{color:#fff}
.btn.ghost:hover{background:rgba(200,65,46,.08)}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- home */
section.wrap{padding-top:var(--sec);padding-bottom:24px}
.hello{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(200px,260px) 1fr;gap:clamp(16px,4vw,48px);align-items:start}
.hello-jp{font:700 clamp(2rem,1.4rem + 1.6vw,2.6rem)/1.2 var(--jp);color:var(--red);position:sticky;top:calc(var(--head-h) + 34px)}
.hello-jp span{display:block;font:italic 400 1rem var(--serif);color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px}
.hello-txt{max-width:720px}
.hello-txt p{font-size:1.06rem}
.lead-p{font:400 clamp(1.15rem,1rem + .5vw,1.3rem)/1.55 var(--serif)}
.intro-strip{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:var(--gap)}
.intro-strip div{border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:12px}
.intro-strip b{display:block;font:600 1.1rem var(--serif)}
.intro-strip span{color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem}
.sec-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:8px 20px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-bottom:24px}
.sec-head h2{margin:0}
.sec-head .muted{margin:0}

/* cards */
.cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:var(--gap)}
.cards.four{grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,1fr))}
.card{display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:var(--card);border-radius:var(--r);overflow:hidden;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);box-shadow:var(--shadow);transition:transform .25s,box-shadow .25s}
.cv{position:relative;aspect-ratio:4/3;overflow:hidden;background:var(--indigo)}
.cv img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .6s}
.card-type{width:100%;height:100%;display:grid;place-items:center;font:700 clamp(3.5rem,8vw,5.5rem)/1 var(--jp);color:rgba(255,255,255,.9);
  background:radial-gradient(circle at 75% 25%,#d4553c 0,transparent 55%),linear-gradient(135deg,#2a1e2e,#1d2b40)}
.badge{position:absolute;left:14px;top:14px;background:rgba(255,253,248,.94);font-size:.72rem;font-weight:600;padding:4px 10px;border-radius:99px;letter-spacing:.03em}
.cb{padding:20px 22px 24px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1}
.cb h3{font-size:1.22rem}
.cb p{color:var(--muted);font-size:.94rem}
.more{margin-top:auto;font-weight:600;color:var(--red-d);font-size:.92rem;text-decoration:none}
.soon-card{border:1px dashed #cdbfa9;box-shadow:none}
@media (hover:hover){
  .card:hover{transform:translateY(-4px);box-shadow:0 2px 4px rgba(0,0,0,.06),0 18px 40px rgba(31,28,25,.12)}
  .card:hover .cv img,.tile:hover .tv img{transform:scale(1.05)}
}

/* region tiles */
.tiles{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,1fr));gap:var(--gap)}
.tiles.three-up{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}
.tile{position:relative;display:block;border-radius:var(--r);overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:3/4;color:#fff;text-decoration:none;box-shadow:var(--shadow);background:var(--indigo)}
.tile .tv,.tile .tv img,.tile .tv .card-type{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.tile .tv img{transition:transform .6s}
.tile::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,0) 35%,rgba(10,10,15,.75))}
.tt{position:absolute;left:clamp(12px,2vw,20px);right:12px;bottom:clamp(12px,2vw,18px);z-index:1}
.tjp{display:block;font:700 1.2rem var(--jp);opacity:.85}
.tt b{display:block;font:600 clamp(1.3rem,1rem + 1.2vw,1.9rem)/1.1 var(--serif)}
.tt small{font-size:.8rem;opacity:.85;letter-spacing:.04em}
.tile .card-type{font-size:clamp(2.6rem,6vw,4rem)}
.island .sec-head h2 .jp{font-size:1.1rem}
.topic{background:linear-gradient(180deg,transparent,rgba(34,48,74,.05));border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:40px}
.topic .sec-head{margin-bottom:8px}
.topic > .muted{max-width:760px;margin-bottom:22px}

/* band + teaser */
.band{background:var(--indigo);color:#f3eee6;margin-top:var(--sec);padding:var(--sec) 0}
.band-in{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(24px,5vw,56px);align-items:center}
.band .kicker{color:#f0a493}
.band p{color:#d6d0c6}
.band .ph img{border-radius:var(--r);aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;width:100%}
.band .ph figcaption{color:#a9a294}
.soon-in{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:clamp(20px,4vw,40px);align-items:center;background:var(--card);border:1px dashed #cdbfa9;border-radius:var(--r);padding:clamp(20px,4vw,36px) clamp(20px,4vw,40px);margin-bottom:var(--sec)}
.soon-in .soon-img{width:clamp(180px,22vw,260px)}
.soon-in .soon-img img{aspect-ratio:1}

/* typographic "photo" */
.kanji{display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;align-items:center;aspect-ratio:4/3;border-radius:10px;color:#fff;
  background:radial-gradient(circle at 78% 22%,rgba(212,85,60,.9) 0,transparent 55%),linear-gradient(135deg,#2a1e2e,#22304a)}
.kanji .kj{font:700 clamp(2.6rem,7vw,5rem)/1.1 var(--jp)}
.kanji .kl{font-size:.75rem;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;opacity:.8;margin-top:10px}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- post layout */
.post{display:grid;grid-template-columns:220px minmax(0,1fr);gap:clamp(24px,4vw,56px);padding-top:clamp(28px,4vw,48px);padding-bottom:40px}
.toc{position:sticky;top:calc(var(--head-h) + 30px);align-self:start;font-size:.9rem;border-left:2px solid var(--line);padding-left:16px}
.toc p{font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);font-weight:600}
.toc a{display:block;color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;padding:5px 0;opacity:.75}
.toc a:hover{opacity:1;color:var(--red-d)}
.post-body{max-width:860px}
.post-body section{padding-top:28px;margin-top:28px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.lead p{font:400 clamp(1.1rem,1rem + .45vw,1.25rem)/1.6 var(--serif);color:#2c2824}
.facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(140px,1fr));background:var(--card);border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--shadow);margin:28px 0 8px;overflow:hidden}
.facts div{padding:16px;border-right:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin:0 -1px -1px 0}
.facts b{display:block;font:600 clamp(1.15rem,1rem + .6vw,1.45rem)/1.2 var(--serif);color:var(--red-d)}
.facts span{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted)}
.facts b .money{font-size:inherit;color:inherit}
.fine-note{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted)}

.glance{display:flex;gap:10px;overflow-x:auto;padding:6px 2px 16px;scroll-snap-type:x proximity;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;scrollbar-width:thin}
.g{flex:0 0 auto;min-width:128px;scroll-snap-align:start;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:12px 14px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink)}
.g:hover{border-color:var(--red)}
.g .n{display:grid;place-items:center;width:26px;height:26px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--red);color:#fff;font-size:.8rem;font-weight:600;margin-bottom:8px}
.g b{display:block;font-size:.92rem;line-height:1.25}
.g small{color:var(--muted);font-size:.76rem}
.mapbox{margin:18px 0}
.mapbox .ph img{aspect-ratio:auto;object-fit:contain;background:none;max-height:min(760px,90vh);width:auto;margin:0 auto;border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--shadow)}

.stop{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1.15fr);gap:clamp(18px,3vw,32px);padding:30px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.stop:last-child{border:0}
.stop:nth-child(even) .stop-vis{order:2}
.stop-vis{min-width:0}
.ph{margin:0}
.ph img{width:100%;border-radius:10px;aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;background:#ddd}
.ph figcaption{font-size:.78rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px}
.thumbs{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:10px;margin-top:10px}
.thumbs .ph img{aspect-ratio:3/2}
.thumbs .ph:only-child{grid-column:span 2}
.stop-head{display:flex;gap:16px;align-items:flex-start}
.num{font:600 clamp(1.9rem,1.5rem + 1vw,2.4rem)/1 var(--serif);color:var(--red);opacity:.9}
.stop-head h3{margin:0 0 .2em;font-size:clamp(1.3rem,1.1rem + .6vw,1.55rem)}
.jp{font:500 1rem var(--jp);color:var(--muted);margin-left:6px}
.stop-head p{margin:0;font-size:.9rem}
ul.plan,ul.stay,.callout ul,.callout ol{padding-left:0;margin:0;list-style:none}
ul.plan li{position:relative;padding-left:20px;margin-bottom:.45em}
ul.plan li::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:2px;top:.62em;width:7px;height:7px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--red)}
ul.stay li{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:14px;padding:9px 0;border-top:1px dashed var(--line);font-size:.93rem}
ul.stay li:first-child{border-top:0}
.sn strong{font-weight:600}
.price{white-space:nowrap;font-weight:600;color:var(--moss);font-size:.88rem;background:#eef0e6;border-radius:99px;padding:2px 10px;height:fit-content}
.gtk{margin-top:16px;background:#fbefe6;border-left:3px solid var(--red);padding:12px 16px;border-radius:0 10px 10px 0;font-size:.93rem}
.gtk b{color:var(--red-d);margin-right:6px}

/* tables */
.tablewrap{overflow-x:auto;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;margin:14px 0}
table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font-size:.93rem}
table.budget{background:var(--card);border-radius:var(--r);overflow:hidden;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
table.budget th{background:var(--ink);color:#fff;text-align:left;font-weight:600;padding:12px 14px;font-size:.84rem}
table.budget td{padding:12px 14px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
table.budget td:not(:first-child){white-space:nowrap}
table.vs td{white-space:normal!important}
table.vs tbody th{background:transparent;color:var(--ink);border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
table.budget img{width:84px;aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;border-radius:6px}
table.days td,table.kv td,table.kv th{padding:10px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);text-align:left;vertical-align:top}
table.days th{text-align:left;font-size:.75rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);padding:8px 12px;border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink)}
table.days td.d{font:600 1.15rem var(--serif);color:var(--red);width:52px}
table.kv th{width:160px;font-weight:600}
.credits table.budget td:not(:first-child){white-space:normal}

/* blocks */
.two{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:20px;margin:16px 0}
.three{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:16px;margin:16px 0}
.imgs{display:grid;gap:12px;margin:16px 0}
.imgs.two-up{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
.imgs.three-up{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}
.imgs.one .ph img{aspect-ratio:16/9}
.callout{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:18px 22px;margin:14px 0}
.callout h4{margin-top:0}
.callout li{padding:4px 0 4px 18px;position:relative}
.callout li::before{content:"–";position:absolute;left:0;color:var(--muted)}
.callout ol{counter-reset:c}
.callout ol li::before{counter-increment:c;content:counter(c);color:var(--red);font-weight:600;font-size:.85rem}
.callout.good{background:#f1f3ea;border-color:#d7dcc6}
.callout.good h4{color:var(--moss)}
.callout.warn{background:#fbefe6;border-color:#efd3c4}
.callout.warn h4{color:var(--red-d)}
.tips{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(min(100%,240px),1fr));gap:14px;margin:16px 0}
.tipcard{background:var(--card);border-radius:12px;padding:16px 18px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.tipcard h4{margin:0 0 .4em;color:var(--red-d)}
.tipcard p{margin:0;font-size:.93rem}
ol.cols{columns:2;column-gap:32px;padding-left:20px}
ol.cols li{margin-bottom:.35em;break-inside:avoid}
ol.check{counter-reset:k;list-style:none;padding:0;margin:14px 0}
ol.check li{counter-increment:k;padding:12px 0 12px 48px;position:relative;border-bottom:1px dashed var(--line)}
ol.check li::before{content:counter(k);position:absolute;left:0;top:9px;width:30px;height:30px;border-radius:50%;border:1.5px solid var(--red);color:var(--red);display:grid;place-items:center;font-weight:600;font-size:.85rem}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;list-style:none;padding:0;margin:14px 0}
.chips li{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:6px 14px;border-radius:99px;font-size:.9rem}
.gallery{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(min(100%,200px),1fr));gap:12px;margin-top:22px}
.staycards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:16px}
.staycard{background:var(--card);border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--shadow);padding:0;overflow:hidden}
.staycard .ph img{border-radius:0;aspect-ratio:16/10}
.staycard .ph figcaption{display:none}
.staycard .sc{padding:18px 22px 22px}
.staycard h3{font-size:1.2rem}
.staycard p{font-size:.92rem}
.staycard .price{display:inline-block;white-space:normal}
.sign{font:500 1.6rem var(--jp);color:var(--red);margin-top:24px}
.sign span{display:block;font:italic 400 .9rem var(--serif);color:var(--muted)}
.related{padding-bottom:var(--sec)!important;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}

/* about / credits */
.about{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1.2fr);gap:clamp(24px,5vw,56px);padding-bottom:var(--sec)!important;align-items:start}
.about-vis{position:sticky;top:calc(var(--head-h) + 30px)}
.about-vis img{aspect-ratio:4/5}
.about h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,1.3rem + 2.4vw,3.4rem)}
.credits{padding-bottom:var(--sec)!important}

/* privacy policy */
.legal{max-width:760px;padding-bottom:var(--sec)!important}
.legal h2{font-size:clamp(1.25rem,1.1rem + .6vw,1.55rem);margin:1.8em 0 .5em}
.legal-sum{background:#fbefe6;border-left:3px solid var(--red);padding:14px 18px;border-radius:0 10px 10px 0;margin:20px 0}
.legal-sum p{margin:0}
.legal-addr{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:14px 18px;line-height:1.7}
.legal code{font-size:.88em;background:#f1ebe2;padding:1px 5px;border-radius:4px}
.todo{background:#ffe3a3;color:#5a3d00;padding:1px 6px;border-radius:4px;font-weight:600}

/* footer */
.site-footer{background:#191714;color:#cfc8bd;padding:var(--sec) 0 24px}
.site-footer .brand{color:#fff;display:flex}
.site-footer .bs{color:#8f877b}
.fgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(24px,4vw,40px)}
.site-footer h4{color:#8f877b}
.site-footer a{color:#e7e1d7;text-decoration:none;display:block;padding:4px 0;font-size:.92rem}
.site-footer a:hover{color:#fff}
.site-footer .muted{color:#9a9286;margin-top:14px}
.footnote{font-size:.78rem;color:#8f877b;letter-spacing:.02em}
.fjp{color:#8f877b;font-size:.8rem;margin-left:4px}
.fine{border-top:1px solid #2e2a25;margin-top:36px;padding-top:18px;font-size:.8rem;color:#8a8276}
.fine a{display:inline;color:#cfc8bd;text-decoration:underline}

/* ================================================================ XL: big screens */
@media (min-width:1600px){
  .wrap{max-width:1320px}
  .post-body{max-width:900px}
}

/* ================================================================ M: half screen / tablet */
@media (max-width:1180px){
  .menu{display:grid;place-items:center}
  .site-header nav{display:none;position:absolute;top:var(--head-h);left:0;right:0;background:var(--paper);flex-direction:column;gap:0;padding:6px var(--gutter) 14px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:0 12px 24px rgba(31,28,25,.08);max-height:calc(100vh - var(--head-h));overflow-y:auto}
  .nav-open .site-header nav{display:flex}
  .site-header nav a{padding:12px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:1rem}
  .site-header nav a:last-child{border-bottom:0}
  .site-header nav a.on{color:var(--red-d)}

  .post{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
  .post-body{max-width:none}
  /* table of contents becomes a chip row above the article */
  .toc{position:static;border-left:0;padding:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;font-size:.85rem}
  .toc p{width:100%;margin:0}
  .toc a{opacity:1;padding:6px 12px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:99px;background:var(--card)}

  .cards.four{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .staycards{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .about-vis{position:static}
}
@media (max-width:980px){
  .cards{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .band-in,.about{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
  .about-vis img{aspect-ratio:16/9}
  .intro-strip{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .hello{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);gap:8px}
  .hello-jp{position:static}
  .fgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}
  .fgrid > div:first-child{grid-column:1 / -1}
}
@media (max-width:900px){
  .tiles{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .tiles.three-up{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .tile{aspect-ratio:4/3}
  .stop{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
  .stop:nth-child(even) .stop-vis{order:0}
  .stop-vis .ph.main img,.stop-vis > .ph img{aspect-ratio:16/9}
  .thumbs{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .thumbs .ph:only-child{grid-column:auto}
}

/* ================================================================ S: phone */
@media (max-width:700px){
  :root{--head-h:60px}
  .seal{width:34px;height:34px;font-size:20px}
  .bn{font-size:1.08rem}
  .bs{font-size:.55rem;letter-spacing:.1em}
  .cur button{padding:6px 9px;min-height:36px;font-size:.76rem}

  .home-hero{min-height:min(78vh,640px);min-height:min(78svh,640px)}
  .hero{min-height:min(56vh,480px);min-height:min(56svh,480px)}
  .hero .sub{margin-bottom:1.2em}
  .btn{padding:10px 18px}

  .cards,.cards.four,.staycards{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
  .tiles,.tiles.three-up{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .tile{aspect-ratio:1}
  .intro-strip{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);gap:14px}
  .two,.three,.imgs.two-up,.imgs.three-up{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
  .imgs.three-up{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .imgs.three-up .ph:first-child{grid-column:1 / -1}
  .thumbs{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .gallery{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:8px}
  .gallery .ph figcaption{font-size:.72rem}
  .soon-in{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
  .soon-in .soon-img{width:100%}
  .soon-in .soon-img img{aspect-ratio:16/9}
  .fgrid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
  ol.cols{columns:1}
  ol.check li{padding-left:42px}

  .facts{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .facts div{padding:12px 14px}
  .stop-head{gap:12px}
  ul.stay li{flex-direction:column;gap:4px}
  ul.stay .price{align-self:flex-start}
  .toc{display:none}
  .post-body section{padding-top:22px;margin-top:22px}

  /* wide tables become stacked cards, labels come from the header (data-label) */
  table.budget thead{display:none}
  table.budget,table.budget tbody,table.budget tr,table.budget td{display:block;width:100%}
  table.budget{background:none;box-shadow:none;border-radius:0}
  table.budget tr{background:var(--card);border-radius:12px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);margin-bottom:10px;padding:6px 0;overflow:hidden}
  table.budget td{border-top:0;padding:6px 14px;white-space:normal!important}
  table.budget td[data-label]:not([data-label=""])::before{content:attr(data-label);display:block;font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);font-weight:600;margin-bottom:1px}
  table.budget td:first-child{font-weight:600}
  table.budget td:empty{display:none}
  table.vs tbody th{display:block;border:0;padding:10px 14px 0}
  .tablewrap{overflow:visible}
  table.kv th,table.kv td{display:block;width:100%;border:0;padding:4px 0}
  table.kv tr{display:block;padding:10px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  table.days td,table.days th{padding:8px 6px}
}
@media (max-width:380px){
  .bs{display:none}
  .tiles,.tiles.three-up{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
  .tile{aspect-ratio:16/9}
  .facts{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
}

/* motion */
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){
  html{scroll-behavior:auto}
  *,*::before,*::after{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}
}

/* fixes after device testing */
.tile .card-type{align-items:start;padding-top:12%;font-size:clamp(2rem,5vw,4rem)}
.tile:has(.card-type) .tjp{display:none}
@media (max-width:700px){.facts div:last-child:nth-child(odd){grid-column:1 / -1}}

/* comments */
.comments{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.cmt-in{max-width:860px}
.cmt-head h2{margin-bottom:.3em}
.cmt-box{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:clamp(14px,3vw,24px);box-shadow:var(--shadow);margin:18px 0 10px;min-height:120px}
.cmt-box iframe{width:100%!important;border:0}
.cmt-soon{display:flex;gap:16px;align-items:flex-start}
.cmt-soon .cmt-ico{font-size:1.8rem;line-height:1}
.cmt-soon b{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.15rem}
.cmt-soon p{margin:.3em 0 0;color:var(--muted);font-size:.94rem}
@media (max-width:1180px){.cmt-in{max-width:none}}

/* sub-sections (Honshu north / central / south) */
.subsec{padding-top:clamp(18px,3vw,30px);scroll-margin-top:calc(var(--head-h) + 14px)}
.subsec + .subsec{margin-top:clamp(18px,3vw,30px);border-top:1px dashed var(--line)}
.sub-head{display:flex;align-items:baseline;gap:6px 14px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.sub-head h3,.sub-head h2{margin:0}
.sub-head h3{font-size:clamp(1.25rem,1rem + .8vw,1.6rem)}
.sub-area{font-size:.74rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;font-weight:600;color:var(--red)}
.sub-intro{max-width:760px;margin:.4em 0 18px}
.subtiles .tile{aspect-ratio:4/3}
@media (max-width:700px){.subtiles{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)!important}.subtiles .tile{aspect-ratio:16/9}}
.card-type.long{font-size:clamp(2.2rem,4.5vw,3.4rem);white-space:nowrap}
.mapbox a{display:block}.map-hint{font-size:.78rem;color:var(--muted);text-align:center;margin:6px 0 0}@media (min-width:701px){.map-hint{display:none}}
.mapbox a{text-decoration:none;color:inherit}.mapbox a:hover img{box-shadow:0 0 0 2px var(--red),var(--shadow)}@media (max-width:700px){.mapbox .ph img{max-height:none;width:100%}}

/* where I eat */
ul.eat{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(min(100%,230px),1fr));gap:6px 18px}
ul.eat li{display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:7px 0;border-top:1px dashed var(--line);font-size:.92rem;line-height:1.35}
ul.eat a{color:var(--ink);font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}
ul.eat a::after{content:" ↗";color:var(--red);font-weight:400;font-size:.8em}
ul.eat a:hover{color:var(--red-d)}
ul.eat span{color:var(--muted);font-size:.82rem}

/* interactive map */
.explore{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(280px,340px) minmax(0,1fr);min-height:calc(100vh - var(--head-h))}
.ex-panel{padding:clamp(18px,2.5vw,28px);border-right:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper);overflow-y:auto;max-height:calc(100vh - var(--head-h));position:sticky;top:var(--head-h)}
.ex-panel h1{font-size:clamp(1.6rem,1.2rem + 1.2vw,2.2rem)}
.ex-filters summary{display:none}
.ex-group{margin:14px 0}
.ex-group h4,.ex-panel > details > h4{margin:0 0 8px}
.ex-cat{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;padding:7px 0;cursor:pointer;font-size:.95rem}
.ex-cat input{width:18px;height:18px;accent-color:var(--red)}
.ex-cat small{margin-left:auto;color:var(--muted);font-size:.8rem}
.dot{display:inline-block;width:12px;height:12px;border-radius:50%;flex:0 0 auto;border:2px solid #fff;box-shadow:0 0 0 1px rgba(0,0,0,.15)}
.cat-food{background:#c8412e}.cat-sight{background:#3a7d44}.cat-shop{background:#7b4bb7}.cat-fun{background:#d9822b}.cat-route{background:#22304a;border-radius:3px}
#ex-trip,#ex-q{width:100%;font:inherit;font-size:.95rem;padding:10px 12px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);min-height:44px}
.ex-count{font-weight:600;margin:14px 0 10px}
.ex-legend{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;font-size:.86rem}
.ex-legend li{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;padding:4px 0}
.ex-legend .ln{width:28px;height:4px;border-radius:2px;flex:0 0 auto}
.ex-mapwrap{position:relative}
#exmap{position:sticky;top:var(--head-h);height:calc(100vh - var(--head-h));width:100%;background:#e8eef2}
.ex-pin{border-radius:50%;border:2px solid #fff;box-shadow:0 1px 4px rgba(0,0,0,.35)}
.ex-stop{background:none;border:0}
.ex-stop span{display:inline-block;transform:translate(-50%,-50%);color:#fff;font:700 12px/1 var(--sans);padding:5px 8px;border-radius:99px;border:2px solid #fff;box-shadow:0 1px 4px rgba(0,0,0,.35);white-space:nowrap}
.marker-cluster{background:rgba(200,65,46,.25)!important}
.marker-cluster div{background:#c8412e!important;color:#fff!important;font:700 12px var(--sans)!important}
.leaflet-popup-content{margin:12px 14px;font-family:var(--sans)}
.pp b{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.05rem;display:block;margin-bottom:4px}
.pp-type{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;color:var(--muted);font-size:.85rem}
.pp-trips{margin-top:6px;font-size:.85rem}
.pp-go{display:inline-block;margin-top:8px;font-weight:600}
.map-live{text-align:center;margin:12px 0 0}
.maptease-in{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(20px,4vw,40px);align-items:center;background:var(--card);border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--shadow);padding:clamp(20px,4vw,36px);text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink)}
.maptease-in p{color:var(--muted)}
.maptease-vis .ph img{aspect-ratio:16/10}
.maptease-vis figcaption{display:none}
@media (max-width:980px){
  .explore{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);min-height:0}
  .ex-panel{position:static;max-height:none;border-right:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  .ex-filters summary{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;cursor:pointer;font-weight:600;padding:10px 14px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;background:var(--card);min-height:44px}
  .ex-filters summary::after{content:"▾"}
  .ex-filters[open] summary::after{content:"▴"}
  .ex-filters[open]{padding-bottom:6px}
  .ex-filters .ex-group{display:block}
  #exmap{position:relative;top:0;height:70vh;height:70svh}
  .maptease-in{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
}
.marker-cluster{background:rgba(200,65,46,.28)!important}
.marker-cluster div{background:#c8412e!important}
.marker-cluster span{color:#fff;font:700 12px/30px var(--sans)}
.leaflet-container{font-family:var(--sans)}
.leaflet-tile-pane{filter:saturate(.75) brightness(1.03)}
.ex-filenote{position:absolute;left:50%;top:14px;transform:translateX(-50%);z-index:1000;max-width:min(560px,calc(100% - 80px));background:var(--card);border:1px solid #efd3c4;border-left:4px solid var(--red);border-radius:10px;padding:10px 14px;font-size:.88rem;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.ex-filenote code{background:#f1ece4;padding:1px 5px;border-radius:4px}
.leaflet-tile-pane{filter:none}

/* picks panels: "Also worth seeing" + "Where I eat" under each stop */
.stop-extra{grid-column:1 / -1;order:3;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(min(100%,300px),1fr));gap:14px;margin-top:4px}
.picks-panel{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:14px 16px 10px}
.picks-panel h4{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;margin:0 0 6px;color:var(--ink)}
.picks-panel .pi{display:grid;place-items:center;width:24px;height:24px;border-radius:50%;font-size:.8rem;letter-spacing:0;background:#eef0e6;color:var(--moss)}
.picks-eat .pi{background:#fbefe6;color:var(--red-d)}
ul.picks{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
ul.picks li + li,.picks-more ul.picks li:first-child{border-top:1px dashed var(--line)}
ul.picks a{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:1px;padding:8px 26px 8px 0;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);position:relative;line-height:1.3}
ul.picks a b{font-weight:600;font-size:.92rem}
ul.picks a span{color:var(--muted);font-size:.8rem}
ul.picks a::after{content:"↗";position:absolute;right:2px;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%);color:var(--line);font-size:.9rem;transition:color .2s}
ul.picks a:hover b{color:var(--red-d)}
ul.picks a:hover::after{color:var(--red)}
.picks-more summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;margin:4px 0 4px;padding:6px 12px;border-radius:99px;border:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.82rem;font-weight:600;color:var(--red-d);min-height:34px}
.picks-more summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.picks-more summary::after{content:"▾";font-size:.75rem}
.picks-more[open] summary::after{content:"▴"}
.picks-more .opened,.picks-more[open] .closed{display:none}
.picks-more[open] .opened{display:inline}
.picks-more[open] summary{margin-bottom:2px}
.picks-more:not([open]) summary:hover{background:#fbefe6}
@media (max-width:700px){.stop-extra{gap:10px}.picks-panel{padding:12px 14px 8px}}
@media (min-width:701px){.stop-extra{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}

/* ---------- FAQ at the end of itineraries ---------- */
.faq{display:grid;gap:10px}
.faq-item{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.faq-item summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:14px;padding:14px 18px;font-weight:600;min-height:48px}
.faq-item summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.faq-item summary::after{content:"+";flex:none;font:400 1.4rem/1 var(--sans);color:var(--red)}
.faq-item[open] summary::after{content:"–"}
.faq-item p{margin:0;padding:0 18px 16px;color:var(--muted)}